This is enjoyable right off the bat, with its firm dark chocolate, liquorice and cassis character, joined by licks of gourmet patisserie swirling through - exactly what you expect from Pagodes de Cos, without losing its sense of restraint. I like the subdued power, and it seems more in the style of 2014 than 2015 or 2016. It's a touch austere but appealing, with a sumptuous touch that keeps it in the Cos stable. 60% of production went to the second wine this year, almost entirely from separate plots. Just 20% of the plots are interchangeable between grand vin and second wine, depending on the vintage character.
This is a tightly wound second wine with dark-berry, hazelnut and chocolate character. Full body, integrated tannins and a fresh and bright finish.
The 2017 Les Pagodes de Cos, which is being matured in 30% new oak (half of the Grand Vin), has a very clean and pure bouquet with black cherries, boysenberry jam and Indian ink. There is certainly impressive intensity here considering this is the deuxième vin. The palate is medium-bodied with succulent ripe tannin. It is furnished with pretty blackberry and wild strawberry notes laced with white pepper and a subtle graphite seam. It has good sustain in the mouth with a Pauillac inspired finish in terms of discrete austerity and tannic backbone. I admire the focus here and even though there is not huge length this should age well. Tasted twice with consistent notes.