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2022 Bordeaux

What was the 2022 Vintage like?

Age worthy high-quality wines crafted from extremes.

Towards the end of the 2022 growing season, we looked on from around the world as the News Media reported fires burning across the Bordeaux region. A devastating and challenging time for the people and the region. Bordeaux is a vast region, fortunately the fires not in areas where the majority of the wines are. That aside, it was very hot, a drought year. One in which much was discussed as to how to protect the grapes from sunburn. A year of whether extremes with hailstorms during the growing season. The resulting quantity produced from the 2022 vintage is extremely low, around 30% on average down, with many properties yield below that.

Expertise and the ability to make the required decisions sees the 2022 vintage from Bordeaux, whilst small in quantity, incredibly high quality. Picking started very early, 15 – 20 days earlier on average. The year very different to 2021 which was a cool vintage, 2022 was hot and dry. The resulting wines are reported to have concentrated tannins and be age worthy. The CIVB in their annual report noting “It has been an ‘historic year for the climate” as it has been around the world. The Bordelaise experience and knowhow does appear to have crafted from these extremes very high quality wines. With the vintage being compared to 2005, 2009 and 2010. All of which were exceptionally good.

A report from Liz Wheadon post tasting in Bordeaux

Finding the right words to describe the 2022 vintage in Bordeaux is intriguing. The Bordelaise have, over the years, used just about every hyperbolic device to describe the quality of the vintage of the day. While many of these phrases have been fairly fitting, when you’ve already over-used ‘Greatest Vintage’ the ‘Vintage of the Decade’ and all other variants, it doesn’t really leave you anywhere to go.

Which is mildly unfortunate when they are now attempting describe a vintage that really is exceptional. The 2022 wines are unlike anything else I have tasted En Primeur (hard to believe it’s been 15 years of tasting barrel samples for me). Typically, it is quite useful to reference similar vintages that allow us to understand what the wines are like; however, the 2022 wines are so unique, they do not have the characters, in their entirety, of any other vintage.

On paper, the heat of the year could be compared to the 2003 vintage, though when you dig into the climatic pattern, 2022 is very different. The wines I tasted are also very different to the 2003 vintage; there’s a freshness and verve that defies comparison.

Being in Bordeaux for the En Primeur campaign this year was delightful and inspiring for many reasons. One that stood out was the way the winemakers answered questions with regards to how they managed the drought conditions. It was clear from the first sip that something had changed; the wines were a lot fresher than I was expecting pre-tasting. A rather typical response for the Bordelaise would be one that exudes confidence and pride. This year many shrugged their shoulders, and more than one simply said, ‘I don’t know; the vines seem to have adapted.’

This, in itself, does appear to be part of the answer. 2022 was definitely a drought year, one where warm, dry conditions started very early on and persisted throughout the vintage. 2022 also followed many warm and dry years in Bordeaux. As this weather style started early and maintained consistency, it appears that the vines did in fact adapt. The grapevine is, after all, one of the hardiest and most adaptive of the climbing plants.

Many winemakers talked about the vines after harvesting, noting that the leaves were still green, despite the heat. In comparison, during the 2003 vintage the heat spiked to very high levels for a more condensed period, potentially causing a greater level of disruption.

Along with this fortuitous adaptation by the vines, it’s clear that smart decisions were made in the vineyard and winery. Picking started very early: 15 to 20 days earlier on average. For example, Chateau Gruaud Larose’s attention to detail prior to picking was impressive, the winemaker sending teams out into the vineyard to remove any berries that were showing overly ripe characteristics. So yes, the teams were removing individual berries from the bunches before they picked, these impressively fastidious sorting techniques ensuring that only the absolute best berries made their way through to the winery.

Many winemakers talked about the small berry size and the relationship of juice to solids being 50/50. Managing the extraction was key as there were plenty of ripe tannins and an abundance of colour. Ensuring the tannins didn’t overpower and the wines showed balance was achieved through careful management of extraction.

As for the acidity, it is not unusual in a Bordeaux report to talk about a rain event at some stage near harvest. Referencing that as the driver to providing freshness in the wines. There were small, isolated rains late in the season, though generally it was hot and dry throughout. The growth on the vines at the end of the harvest speaks to the adaptation and explains why the acidity is balanced in many wines.

The resulting quantity produced from the 2022 vintage is extremely low, around 30% on average down, with many properties yield below that. Quantities are very low and quality high. Combined with more of the markets globally now open, this will be a year in high demand. We are confident that through our excellent connections established over many years we will be able to look after our customers.

High quality combined with low quantity with the backdrop of varying economic pressures in many markets make pricing this vintage a challenge. The 2019 vintage was exceptionally well priced, 2020 then above that and 2021 between the two. The quality here is ahead of these vintages, which should see increases in pricing, the big question is by how much. There have been some releases this week that are relatively well priced (some even below the 2021) this is indeed encouraging.

The first offers will be out early next week. May is a month of many public holidays in France, as well as a trade event mid-month which will likely see a pause to the offers. Whilst the wines have only just been tasted in Bordeaux, we have opened the campaign on our website. This allows you to start thinking of the wines you would like to have on your wish list this year.

Critics reviews have started to be released, we will work through next week and add these to the website.

A vintage born from extremes that has delivered exquisite wines that will stand the test of time. There will be high demand for these wines. Whilst we will do everything we can, this will be a year for quick decisions and getting in quickly. A year that you want in your cellar, you’ll be pleased you purchased and will enjoy for many years to come.